Friday, 19 September 2008

Thorpeness

Can you imagine inheriting an old fishing hamlet, and then transforming it into a picturesque seaside village, complete with golf club and boating lake?

Well that's what happened in the early 1900's when the Scottish playwright and barrister Glencairn Stuart Ogilvie decided to build a seaside village at Thorpe on the Suffolk coast.

The hamlet was inherited, along with the family estate of Sizewell, when Ogilvie's mother passed away in 1908.

Ogilvie, being a visionary and a romanticist, wanted to create a seaside retreat in the Jacobean and Tudor styles. He was inspired by the works of J. M. Barrie, the Scottish novelist better known for creating Peter Pan.

Work began in 1910, when open fields were flooded to create a 65 acre artificial lake called 'The Meare'.


Rowing boats on The Meare

Rowing boats, canoes, and dinghies can be hired to explore the many islands on the lake, which are based around the Wendy and Peter Pan themes.


Boats are named after childrens fictional characters

Buildings were then constructed around the lake, many of which are of a mock Tudor style.


Ogilvie Hall


House on the beach-front


The Dunes

Having said that, these colourful buildings overlooking the shingle beach don't really fit into any category.


Brightly coloured beach-front houses

The Dolphin Inn can be found in the centre of the village. It's an ideal location to visit at the start of your trip, as it offers good food and refreshments, and provides a bicycle hire service.


The Dolphin Inn

The House in the Clouds is one of the more unusual and extraordinary sights. It was originally constructed in 1923 as a water tower, but was later imaginatively disguised as a house.


The House in the Clouds

From a distance, it appears as though there's a cottage lodged high in the trees.


The House in the Clouds as seen from The Meare

The village is also home to a working post mill that was originally built in 1824, and was last used to pump water into the tank within the House in the Clouds.



The mill was designed so that the upper structure could rotate around a central post, enabling it to face into the wind at all times.


Post Mill interior

The beach itself is well worth a visit too. Overlooking the North Sea, the shingle beach offers spectacular views.


Looking North up the beach

It's also a popular location for watersports enthusiasts such as the Kitesurfer below.


Kitesurfing

Thorpeness is an excellent place to visit for young and old alike. If you visit in August, there's a regatta held on the Meare, followed by a huge firework display.

There are plenty of things to see and do, and lots of opportunities to explore, but as the village wasn't really built with cars in mind, I would recommend hiring or bringing along a bicycle.

Thorpeness is about 4km North of Aldeburgh, map reference TM470590

Saturday, 2 August 2008

Dunwich

I visited the coastal town of Dunwich today. I arrived at around twelve thirty, and despite the inclement weather, the car park and cafe were very busy.

I'd heard that the cafe served excellent fish and chips, so I thought I'd give it a try. I ordered a plate of haddock and chips, and sat outside to relax for a while. I expected a long wait, but I was pleasantly suprised when one of the friendly staff brought my order out within five minutes.

The haddock was absolutely delicious; about twelve inches long and with just the right amount of batter. It was accompanied by a fairly large portion of chips that were quite thick and not too crunchy, but at just over £7 it wasn't cheap.

Despite the cost, I'd still give it 10 out of 10, and I'll certainly be coming back again.

Before setting off this morning, I was in a dilemma over whether to bring the binoculars or the camera (it's difficult carrying them together). I wanted to take some photo's for this article, but after reading about a Suffolk Wildlife Trust reserve called Dingle Marshes I decided to take the binoculars instead.

I wasn't disappointed, as I got to see some amazing sights, but more on that later.

I decided to start the afternoon off by walking south along the beach towards the Sizewell nuclear power stations. I could see the Sizewell B reactor in the distance, but the imposing white dome of its pressurised water reactor looked a little out of place. Sizewell A, which was designed around the now obsolete Magnox reactor, is currently being decommissioned.

While walking along the shore (which is a mixture of shingle and sand), I immediately became aware of the devastating effects of erosion on the cliffs. As is often a familiar sight on East Anglian coastlines, large amounts of clay, soil, and rock, have been sheared away from the cliff face, exposing the Tertiary and Pleistocene clays that it's composed of.

As a result of this, large amounts of land and buildings, have been lost to the sea since the beginning of the 13th century. It's hard to believe, but the buildings that currently sit on these cliffs were once a mile inland!

The Sand martins that inhabit this stretch of cliff didn't seem to be deterred by the erosion. I managed to observe a few chicks peering out from within their nests.

After walking for about four miles, I decided to take a rest before turning back. I found a comfortable spot among the shingle and rested my weary feet. Looking out to sea, I spotted a large Cormorant in the distance. It flew low over the waves before landing clumsily in the water. I watched it for a few minutes and then it dived and I lost sight of it.

As I headed north up the beach, I spotted a pair of Common tern. They were flying headlong into the wind, which was so strong that it caused them to slow down almost to a stall. I watched as they struggled along, occasionally swooping to take some prey off the surface. They flew in this manner for a few hundred metres, before turning around and letting the wind blow them back again to their starting point.

By the time I'd reached the car park, I'd walked a total of 8 miles and I could certainly feel it. The shingle had taken its toll on my legs, which were beginning to ache, so I decided to ease off the pace a little.

I'd originally wanted to walk from Dunwich to Southwold, but that would have meant crossing the River Blyth. So instead, I settled on reaching the mouth of the estuary just beyond Walberswick (which is about 3 miles from the car park).

I took advantage of the retreating tide and walked upon the firm, wet sand, which was a real pleasure compared with the shingle.

I came across a large number of stranded jellyfish, the majority of which were Common jellyfish (Aurelia aurita). I also spotted a few Compass jellyfish (Chrysaora hysoscella).

As I approached the stretch of beach adjacent to Dingle Marshes I was surprised to see a Ringed plover less than 20 feet away! Hoping not to scare it, I carefully reached for my binoculars. Standing as still as possible, I focussed on the bird and was instantly taken aback by the clarity, and level of detail which I was seeing. I was fortunate to observe it for almost five minutes before it flew off.

I left the sandy shoreline and cautiously ascended the steep, shingle bank, leading up to Dingle Marshes. When I reached the top, I was pleased to see a wide variety of different species. I saw Little egret, Grey heron, Little tern, Herring gull, Black-headed gull, Ringed plover, Redshank, Cormorant, Shelduck, Greylag goose, and Mute swan. The reserve is also home to Bittern and Avocet, but I didn't see any on this visit.

After spending some time observing the wildlife, I resumed my walk to the mouth of the River Blyth.

This last stretch of beach appeared to be busier than the section near the car park. There were people walking dogs, couples walking hand in hand, families with children, and people flying power kites.

I quickly reached my goal, and took a well deserved rest on one of the concrete groynes at the rivers mouth. I spent the next 15 minutes relaxing and taking in the stunning scenery. The retreating tide had left some rock pools behind, so I had a quick look to see what I could find before setting off on the return journey.

It was after six o'clock when I finally arrived at the car park. I'd walked 16 miles in about five hours. I was hot, sweating, and I had a bright red face!

I thoroughly enjoyed myself though. I saw lots of interesting wildlife and the exercise will have done me good.

Whether you're a birder, a walker, into extreme sports, or just fancy a stroll by the sea, I'm sure Dunwich will have something to offer you.

Please visit the following links for further information:

A history of Dunwich
The Geology of Dunwich
Dunwich All Saints
Sizewell A RIP
Jellyfish Page
Dunwich - Google Maps

Saturday, 26 July 2008

Butterflies

Ever since I was a young boy, I've enjoyed watching butterflies. Whether lazily flitting along the bank of a river, or perched warily among flowers in a garden, they've always aroused my curiousity.

I often marvelled at their acrobatic courtship displays and their agility, and I'm still amazed that such gaily coloured insects have managed to evolve without being driven to extinction by birds and other predators.

After a cold and dark winter, I'm at my happiest when I see the first butterfly of the year, because I know that Spring is finally here.

I hope that after reading this article you will find the world of butterflies as interesting as I do. If you want to get involved with butterfly conservation and monitoring, or you'd simply like to learn more, I've included some useful links at the end of the article for you to visit.

I intend to record the various species of butterfly observed throughout the year in the county of Suffolk. Due to the dynamic nature of the subject, I will update this article with photographs of new species when they are seen.

Butterflies are Insects belonging to the order Lepidoptera, which basically means "Scale Wing". As is common with all lepidoptera, they have a four stage life-cycle:

  • egg
  • larva/caterpillar
  • pupa/chrysalis
  • imago/adult
The egg is usually laid on or near a host-plant that will later become the caterpillars food. The egg is held in place by a fast drying glue which prevents it from being separated from the plant.

Larvae, or caterpillars, are the second stage in a butterflies life-cycle and are frequently observed amongst the host-plants. They consume an enormous amount of plant material and spend the majority of their time searching for food. During this period, the caterpillar matures through a series of stages, called instars. At the end of each instar, the skin is moulted and promptly replaced by a new one.

When the larva is fully grown, it transforms into a pupa by anchoring itself to a suitable surface and moulting its skin for the last time.

The mature, adult insect, is known as the imago. It has the following characteristics:


A - Forewing B - Antenna C - Compound eye D - Proboscis
E - Thorax F - Leg G- Abdomen H - Hindwing I - Tail
(image courtesy of Wikipedia)

At this point, I'll introduce some of the species that I've observed throughout the year in Suffolk.


Brimstone - Gonepteryx rhamni

The Brimstone is often seen from March to late October. The male is yellow, the female is pale green or delicate yellow, it usually rests with its wings together. This specimen was photographed feeding on a Buddleia bush in my garden. Note the perfectly camouflaged undersides which mimic a leaf.


Comma - Polygonia c-album

The Comma can be seen from April to November. It hibernates during the winter and emerges in the spring. It has a white mark on its underwing that resembles a comma.


Comma showing its characteristic "comma shaped" white mark


Peacock - Inachis io

The Peacock gets its name from the large, colourful spots on its wings, that resemble the markings on a peacocks tail. They can be seen from March to August, and hibernate in trees during the winter. The specimen in this photograph can be clearly seen feeding on the Buddleia.


Note the Peacocks camouflage, which looks remarkably like wood bark


Front view of a Peacock showing the downy hair on its thorax and abdomen


Small Tortoiseshell - Aglais urticae

The Small Tortoiseshell can be seen from March to late October. It drinks nectar from a wide variety of flowers, but Buddleia seems to be its favourite.


Small Tortoiseshell feeding, note the extended proboscis


Small White - Pieris rapae

The Small White (also known as a Cabbage White), is usually seen between April and October. Unfortunately, it is disliked by most of the gardening and farming community because of its tendancy to lay eggs on members of the cabbage family.


Speckled Wood - Pararge aegeria

The Speckled Wood can often be seen from February to October. This species inhabits woodlands and hedgerows, and feed on Aphid honey-dew rather than nectar.


Red Admiral - Vanessa atalanta

The Red Admiral can be seen between March and October. This species migrates in winter and returns in early spring.



The specimen above, appears to have the tip of its left forewing missing. Remarkably, it could still fly without any problems.


Side view of a Red Admiral showing its bark-like camouflage


Small Skipper - Thymelicus sylvestris

The Small Skipper can be found at the edge of woodland, meadows and grasslands, from May to July. It usually rests with its forewings angled slightly above its hindwings.


Meadow Brown - Maniola jurtina

The Meadow Brown is very common throughout Britain and Ireland. It can be found in a wide range of habitats, between the months of May and September.

Please click on any of the following links for further information:

UK Butterflies
Butterfly Conservation
Suffolk Butterflies
UK Butterfly Monitoring Scheme
Learn about Butterflies
Butterflies and Moths
UK Lepidopterists - Yahoo Group
Anglian Lepidopterist Supplies

Sunday, 8 June 2008

Barton Mills Scarecrow Festival

This years theme for the 7th Barton Mills Scarecrow Festival was 'Recycling'.



For readers unfamiliar with this annual event I highly recommend paying a visit the next time you're in the area.



Weather permitting, there's usually a huge turnout with numbers estimated to be in the ten thousands.



In 1999 Barton Mills was featured in the Guinness Book of Records for having the most scarecrows ever built at any one time!



Almost all the village residents took part, creating scarecrows out of various household objects.



Visitors to this years festival were entertained with a magnificent performance by the Bunbury Players accompanied by the K.A.T.S School of Dancing.



In addition to this, there were various stalls run by charities and local groups, as well as barbeques, a bar, and plenty of ice cream vans.



There were various interpretations of the recycling theme. From popular television characters such as Dr. Who and Postman Pat, to persuasive slogans extolling the many virtues of recycling.



I think we would all agree that recycling has been in the media a lot lately, but it's only with local events like this that we can really get the message across to more people.



New to this years festival was the 'Turn Off' prize awarded to the best scarecrow made out of recycled materials. The competition was judged by the Channel 4 news presenter Alex Thomson.



For those visitors with an interest in gardening there were around 20 gardens open to the public.



As this is a charity event, any money collected will benefit the Barton Mills Parish Church Preservation Trust, who's aim is to raise enough funding to maintain the 900 year old St Mary's Church.



In St Mary's church there was a flower festival with a difference..........all the flowers were made out of recycled or left-over materials!



On Sunday, there was a performance by the Green Dragon Morris Dancers.



On Saturday evening until 11pm there was a family music night with bar, barbeque, and bring your own food.



There were also some interesting displays by the Suffolk County Council recycling team, and the R.S.P.B staff from Lakenheath Fen.



A great place to spend a lazy hour or so would be 'The Manor' where you can enjoy a delicious cream tea while relaxing in their magnificent gardens. On the island opposite the tea lawn you'll find scenes from the popular animated movie 'Ice Age'.















I think this picture says it all.............

Sunday, 18 May 2008

Aspal Close

Aspal Close is an English Heritage site situated in Beck Row, Suffolk. It was originally a small park which once belonged to the 14th century manor known as Aspallgate (or Aspel Hall).



In 1982 it was aquired by Forest Heath District Council, and was later established as a Local Nature Reserve in 1991.



This medieval wood pasture contains around 200 Oak trees, many of which are Pollards. Some of these trees are almost 1000 years old.



The site is an excellent habitat for a wide variety of insects, birds, and flowers. Almost 300 different plant species have been recorded at the Close, and a recent survey has shown that at least 6 species of bat are roosting or feeding here.



The Oaks are also home to many different species of fungi. In 2007, a new species of Lichen was discovered on a 700 year old Oak tree!



Many of the ancient Oak are in an advanced stage of decay. Their peeling bark, and split or hollow trunks, provide an ideal habitat for invertebrates to live in. These are then preyed upon by bats and birds.



The site is extensively grazed by rabbits, but there is a possibility that sheep could be introduced in the future.



Over 100 species of birds can be found at Aspal Close. Little Owl, Green Woodpecker, Blue Tit and Kestrel can be frequently seen.



This is a nationally important site, not only for its diverse variety of wildlife, but also because it's one of the few places in the country where ancient Oak can still be found in abundance.



The site is owned and managed by Forest Heath District Council and can be found at grid reference TL700772.

Sunday, 6 April 2008

Bats

The purpose of this article is to dispel any superstitions and misconceptions associated with Bats, and to present you with the real facts about these interesting mammals.

I will write about some of the different species that can be found in the British Isles, and I'll be describing their habitat and behaviour.

I'll also be looking at practical ways in which we can help protect them and prevent their extinction.


Big eared townsend bat (Corynorhinus townsendii)

Almost everybody has encountered bats at one time in their lives. Usually via the media, portrayed as the popular anti-hero in the Batman series of films and comics, or in the 19th century Bram Stoker novel Dracula.

People living or working in rural areas, or those walking in the countryside, will often observe bats in flight, and on very rare occasions may even encounter them at close quarters.

Bats are the only mammals that can fly, unlike the Flying Squirrels that simply glide and are unable to actually fly upwards.

Bats belong to the taxonomic order Chiroptera, which roughly translated means "Hand Wing". The bone structure of their wings is almost identical to that of the human hand, but with very long, thin fingers, joined together by a stretchy membrane of almost hairless skin.

Chiroptera can be split up into two sub-orders: Microchiroptera and Megachiroptera. The former are found in Britain, and predominately feed on insects. They have quite small eyes and rely on echo-location to find food and navigate. The latter generally have larger eyes, which they use instead of echo-location, and usually feed on fruit.

Bats range in size from the diminutive Kitti's Hog-nosed Bat , which is indigenous to Thailand and about 30mm long, weighing around 2 grams.


Kitti's hog-nosed bat (Craseonycteris thonglongyai)

All the way up to the Flying Foxes or Fruit Bats commonly found in tropical climates, which have an impressive wingspan of almost 6 feet and weigh over 2 pounds.


Malayan Flying Fox (Pteropus vampyrus)

Nectar Bats such as the Dekeyser's Nectar Bat also belong to the Megachiroptera sub-class, but instead of eating fruit they use their long tongues and snouts to reach inside flowers and feed on the nectar and pollen within.

The Fish-Eating Bat is one of only a few species of bats that eat fish. It has very long feet and large toes which it uses to grab small fish near the surface of the water.

There are only three bat species that feed on blood: The Common Vampire Bat (Desmodus rotundus), the Hairy-Legged Vampire Bat (Diphylla ecaudata), and the White-Winged Vampire Bat (Diaemus youngi).

The Vampire Bat is a blood drinking bat (sanguivore) that usually feeds on the blood of horses, donkeys, pigs, goats, cattle and birds.


Common Vampire Bat (Desmodus rotundus)

Contrary to popular belief, Vampire Bats do not have fangs which they use to pierce the skin. They actually have razor-sharp upper incisor teeth, with which they make a small, painless incision, and then lap up the blood.

As with many other sanguivores, their saliva contains several ingredients that prevent the blood clotting and prolong bleeding. One of which, a Glycoprotein called Draculin, is of particular interest to pharmacists for its remarkable anticoagulant properties which may be beneficial to heart attack and stroke patients in the future.

Vampires: The Real Story contains a wealth of information for anyone interested in finding out the truth about vampire bats. It's written by two well-known experts in the field and does an excellent job of debunking the myths associated with vampire bats.

Bats can be found almost everywhere on Earth, but not in very hot or very cold climates. They inhabit all continents except Antarctica.


Indiana bat (Myotis sodalis)

Bats generally try to find a shelter that offers some form of protection from predators, usually somewhere high up or with a narrow opening.

The most common roost sites are to be found in trees and caves, where bats seek out cavities and crevices to squeeze into. They also roost in buildings, tunnels, walls, mines and bridges.


Little brown bats (Myotis lucifugus) in Endless Caverns, Virginia, USA

There are two major factors which influence their choice of roosting site:

  • Temperature
  • Humidity
Female bats tend to choose hot sites when pregnant because bat embryos develop much more slowly when cold. Males prefer cooler roosting sites in summer, where they can conserve their stored energy.

When a bat has found a roosting site, it enters and hangs upside down from a suitable surface by its feet. In highly populated roosts it is not uncommon for bats to be found clinging to one another.

In temperate climates, bats usually mate in the autumn or winter. The females then carry the males' live sperm inside them through the hibernation period, ovulate in spring and then become pregnant. In more tropical areas, fertilisation occurs immediately after mating, followed by development of the embryo and birth.

Mother bats typically give birth to only one offspring per year, but some species can have up to four. A baby bat is referred to as a Pup, and although the ability to fly is congenital, at birth the wings are too small so they cling to their mother for transport.

Young microchiroptera become independent at the age of 6 to 8 weeks, megachiroptera around four months old. At the age of two years, bats are sexually mature.

In temperate climates, bats hibernate between October and April. During this period, their metabolism and internal organs slow down, their body temperature decreases, and they become torpid. They do this in order to save energy when food is scarce. It is very important that they are not disturbed while hibernating, otherwise they may use up some of their fat reserves when they wake up.

The hibernation site is referred to as a Hibernaculum, and is carefully chosen by the bat. It has to have just the right amount of humidity (otherwise the bat will dehydrate), be inaccessible to predators, and not have any extremes of temperature.

Contrary to popular belief, bats have excellent eyesight which they supplement with a sophisticated high frequency echo-location system. They emit a series of inaudible (to humans) ultrasonic chirps, clicks, and barks, which usually sweep from high to low frequencies, or vary around a particular frequency. By looking at these frequencies and other characteristics of their calls, we can identify the species of bat.

This can easily be achieved with the use of a heterodyne detector such as the Magenta Bat4. I would also recommend purchasing The Bat Detective which is a guide to identifying bats. It includes an excellent audio CD containing 48 tracks of 13 British bat species.

There are over 900 different species of bats throughout the world, but only 17 of those are found in the British Isles:
Six of these are designated as rare, two as endangered, and six vulnerable.

There have been one or two sightings of the Greater Mouse-Eared since it was declared exctinct in the UK in 1990. Sadly, there have been no further reports.


Skeleton of a Greater Mouse-Eared Bat (Myotis myotis)

The following bats can be found in Suffolk:
  • Common Pipistrelle
  • Soprano Pipistrelle
  • Lesser horseshoe
  • Natterers
  • Daubentons
  • Whiskered
  • Brandts
  • Noctule
  • Leislers
  • Serotine
  • Barbastelle
  • Brown long eared
Pipistrelle are the most common species found in the county, and the most frequently encountered roosting in buildings.


Common Pipistrelle (Pipistrellus pipistrellus)

The Pipistrelle is Britains smallest bat and appears to be abundant and widespread throughout the rest of the country.

I often observe Soprano Pipistrelle flying over the River Lark, where they hunt for small insects which are caught and eaten in flight. They echo-locate at a peak frequency of around 55KHz, whereas Common Pipistrelle echo-locate at a peak frequency of 45KHz.

Habitat plays an extremely important role in bat ecology, of particular importance is Arboreal habitat. Bats are very dependent upon having a wide variety of roosting sites, research suggests that bats may occupy over 30 different sites during the summer. Not only do trees provide a roosting site for bats, they also serve as shelter for the insects that bats feed upon.

We can all do something to help conserve bats and their habitats, here are some ideas:
  • Put up bat boxes
  • Make your garden attractive to wildlife
  • Don't cut down dead trees
  • Join your local bat group
  • Take part in the European Bat Weekend
  • Take part in the National Bat Monitoring Programme
  • Join the Bat Conservation Trust
Bats need a wide variety of roosting sites, you can give them more choice by putting up a simple bat box. Building a bat box, Bat Boxes, and How to make a bat box (PDF) are all excellent tutorials. Always remember to use untreated wood, because many wood preservatives can kill bats.

On a much larger scale, Hibernaculums like this one at Thetford Forest can be built to provide a winter home for the bats. It will allow bat numbers to be closely monitored, and may help to protect some of the rarer species such as the Barbastelle.

By making your garden attractive to wildlife you'll be encouraging a wide variety of insects, which in turn, will attract bats. The insects will pollinate your plants, the plants will reproduce and attract more insects, and the bats will keep the insect population in control. Your garden will also become a home for other natural predators such as garden birds, hedgehogs, ladybirds, and spiders. It's the ideal way of encouraging biodiversity! How do I attract bats to my garden? (PDF)

Dead trees are an ideal habitat for insects, as well as providing a roost site for bats. They encourage a large diversity of different insects including moths, caterpillars, centipedes, beetles, aphids, and other invertebrates. Some species of bat have been known to roost beneath the exfoliating bark commonly found on dead trees.

If you join a local bat group you'll have an opportunity to meet other like-minded individuals, to attend conferences, and to take part in surveys and guided walks. You'll usually receive a regular newsletter keeping you up to date with your groups activities. Take a look at Local bat groups to locate a group near you.

The Suffolk Bat Group is one of 90 bat groups nationwide whose primary aim is to protect bats. They achieve this remarkable feat by advising the public, carrying out surveys, enhancing and creating hibernation sites, and establishing bat box projects.

By taking part in the European Bat Weekend you'll be able to learn more about the problems facing bats, and to find out how you can help. There will be hundreds of organised bat walks and talks. Look here for an update

When you sign up to the National Bat Monitoring Programme you'll be assisting with a nationwide survey. The data collected is analysed to discover any trends or fluctuations. This information allows us to assess the conservation needs of British bats, and to focus our efforts more efficiently. Regardless of your current knowledge or experience, the NBMP will have a survey suitable for you.

By joining the The Bat Conservation Trust you'll be helping to raise much-needed funds for a variety of bat conservation projects. With your help they can monitor bat populations, support local bat groups, provide training, teach the public about bats, and operate a bat helpline.

So what do bats do for us? Bats are beneficial in a number of ways:
  • Bats control insect populations
  • Bats are helpful to farmers
  • Bats pollinate plants and trees
  • Bats have been used in the development of vaccines
  • Vampire bat saliva has pharmaceutical properties
  • Echolocation has been used to develop navigational aids for the blind
  • Bat droppings (Guano) are an excellent fertiliser
  • Bats have been used in the study of space science
I'm sure you'll agree that bats are very helpful creatures, but most of what they do for us usually goes unnoticed, or gets taken for granted.

If you'd like to find out more about bats I would suggest reading some of the following books:

Bats (Life) - by Phil Richardson - ISBN 0565091670
Bats: Biology and Behaviour - by John D. Altringham - ISBN 0198503229
Bat Ecology - by TH Kunz - ISBN 0226462072
British Bats - by John D. Altringham - ISBN 0002201402
Bats (British Natural History) - by Phil Richardson - ISBN 1873580509

All species of bats are protected by the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981, please read Bats and the law for further information.

All images courtesy of Wikimedia Commons

Friday, 28 March 2008

Constable Country

The county of Suffolk is well known for its picturesque villages, quaint thatched cottages, and its unspoilt rural landscapes.

Although Suffolk is famous for artists such as Thomas Gainsborough, Thomas Churchyard, and Sir Alfred Munnings, it is the 19th century landscape painter John Constable that still captures everyone's attention today.


Self portrait - Pencil & watercolour 1806

Born 50 years after Gainsborough on the 11th June 1776 in the village of East Bergholt in Suffolk, he came from a respectable family of two brothers and three sisters. His father, Golding Constable, was a wealthy corn merchant who owned a number of properties and land in the area.

John Constable spent his early years sketching scenes from the countryside surrounding his home, and it could be said that it was this period that influenced him the most.

Golding Constable was eager for his son to take over the family business and decided to enroll him at a day school and to train him as a miller. John reluctantly spent a year doing this before he managed to persuade his father to allow him to pursue his artistic interests.

In 1799 Constable was admitted to the Royal Academy School where he studied anatomy, life drawing, and the Old Masters. But he became disillusioned with life in London when it became apparent that landscape painting was frowned upon by the Academy.

In 1802 Constable painted "Dedham Vale" which was a reinterpretation of the Old Masters he'd been studying at the Academy.


Dedham Vale - Oil on canvas 1802


Stour Valley & Dedham Church - Oil on canvas 1814


Boat building near Flatford Mill - Oil on canvas 1815

By the age of 33, he'd reached the height of his abilities. Unfortunately, he was unable to support himself or earn a decent living from his work. He was also disheartened by the fact that he had not been elected an Associate of the Academy, or a full member.

It was around this time that he fell in love with his childhood friend Maria Bicknell who was younger than Constable and came from a rich family. However, the relationship was problematic because her grandfather, the rector of East Bergholt, opposed their engagement.


Maria Bicknell - Oil on canvas 1816

If it wasn't for Constables' perseverance and sheer determination, their relationship would have failed, but on 2nd October 1816 they finally married.

During the next three years, Constable began his work with a renewed passion, bringing his paintings to life with vivid colours and striking brushstrokes.

The first financially successful painting he sold was a large-scale canvas called "The White Horse", which depicts a horse being ferried over the River Stour.


The White Horse - Oil on canvas 1819

The River Stour became a popular theme for Constable, and his "six-footers" are among some of the best known images of British art.

In 1820 he began working on "The Hay Wain", but this proved troublesome and he had to ask the son of a friend to provide him with an accurate drawing.


The Hay Wain - Oil on canvas 1821

When this painting was initially exhibited at The Royal Academy it failed to sell. When exhibited in France, Constable was awarded a Gold Medal by Charles X. His paintings were extremely popular in France, having sold more than twenty in just a few years.


The Lock (A Boat Passing a Lock) - Oil on canvas 1824

Constable spent some time living in Brighton in an attempt to improve his wifes' failing health. He produced a lot of work during his stay, but the only large-scale canvas from this area is "Chain Pier".


Chain Pier - Oil on canvas 1826

Another remarkable piece of art from this period is "Brighton Beach, with colliers" which depicts coal brigs against a blue sky.


Brighton Beach, with colliers - Oil on paper 1824


The Leaping Horse - Oil on canvas 1825

Marias' health declined, and in November 1828 she fell ill and died of Tuberculosis at the age of forty one. This had a profound effect on Constable, and from then on he always dressed in black and appeared to be in mourning.

The painting below clearly illustrates the immense loneliness and anxiety that Constable would have been experiencing during this painful period.


Hadleigh Castle - Oil on canvas 1829

During the next seven years, Constables' outlook on life gradually improved, and after an unfortunate gamble with some inheritance money he began to get back on track.


Cottage at East Bergholt - Oil on canvas 1833


The Valley Farm - Oil on canvas 1835

He was elected a full member of the Royal Academy in February 1829, and in 1831 was appointed Visitor at the Royal Academy.

He began to deliver public lectures on the history of landscape painting, which proved to be very popular.

John Constable died on the evening of March 31st 1837, and was buried beside his wife in St John-at-Hampstead church, London.

Constable was inspired by a wide variety of classical artists, of particular interest are: Claude Lorrain, Peter Paul Rubens, Annibale Carracci, Jacob Isaakszoon van Ruysdael, and Thomas Gainsborough.

If you'd like to find out more about Constable and the landscape that captured his imagination I would suggest visiting the Constable country, Essex and Suffolk walking guide published by the Guardian Newspaper.

Another excellent source of information is The Great Landscapes Constable Exhibition provided by the Tate Gallery. A really unique feature of the website is that it allows you to compare modern-day photographs of the landscape with Constables' paintings.

I'd also recommend taking a look at A Sketchbook by Constable provided by the V&A Museum. It's a selection of images from the pocket sketchbooks that Constable used during 1814.

Finally, if you'd like to experience rural life in the 16th century I would highly recommend visiting the Flatford: Bridge Cottage National Trust site, which hosts a Constable exhibition. This is an excellent base for walks along the River Stour. It's got a pleasant, riverside tea room, which will provide the weary traveller ample opportunity to relax over a refreshing drink.

All images courtesy of Wikimedia Commons

Friday, 14 March 2008

Orford Ness

Orford Ness is a 16km long coastal shingle spit which lies between Aldeburgh and Felixstowe on the Suffolk coast. There is almost 600ha of exposed shingle which is in a constant state of flux due to the eroding and depositing effects of the North Sea.

Orford Ness is home to a wide variety of wildlife including birds, invertebrates, and plants. It is an important breeding ground for the Little Tern (Sterna albifrons) as well as hosting an extensive Gull colony. In addition to these, Divers, Grebes, Cormorants, Egrets, Herons and a multitude of other species can be regularly seen.



The site also has a large number of brackish lagoons, which are pools containing a mixture of fresh and salt water. Some of these were man-made when clay was removed from the area for the construction and repair of river walls. These lagoons provide an ideal habitat for waders and other birds, as well as plants and the rare Starlet Sea Anemone (Nematostella vectensis).


Brackish Lagoon

Because of these unique features, Orford Ness has been designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), a Special Protection Area (SPA), and a Special Area of Conservation (SAC). This was considered necessary to prevent any further damage or disturbance caused by illegal access by vehicles and pedestrians.

Orford Ness has a rather interesting military history. A large proportion of the site was acquired by the War Department in 1913, and shortly afterwards the area was drained and levelled to form airfields which were used by the Central Flying School's Experimental Flying Section.

During this period, some of the most important developments in the history of warfare took place here. Groundbreaking work was carried out on parachutes, aerial photography, weapon sights, and improved camouflage.

After the war it was reused as a firing and bombing range by the Aeroplane and Armaments Experimental Establishment at nearby Martlesham Heath.

In May 1935 part of the site was requisitioned for use by Sir Robert Alexander Watson-Watt and his team of scientists who were working on a method of detecting enemy aircraft using radio waves.

Watson-Watt established a scientific research department known as the Ionospheric Research Station. The purpose of which, was to work on research and development of the aerial defence system, which was later called by its more familiar name RADAR.

During the next few months, work was carried out at the site in an attempt to improve the systems range and accuracy. By the end of the year, aircraft could be detected at a distance of 100km, but although this was a remarkable feat of engineering, it soon became apparent that Orford Ness was unsuitable for further research and another site would be needed.

In order to facilitate this, Bawdsey Manor Estate was purchased at a bargain price of £24,000. Shortly afterwards, Watson-Watt and his team moved to the new premises and began to convert the manor house and its various outbuildings into suitable workshops.

Huge wooden and steel towers were erected and the site became Britains first Chain Home Radar Station.

There were almost 60 of these systems installed along the coast of Britain, of which, there were two types. The Chain Home stations (AMES Type 1) provided long range detection, whereas the Chain Home Low stations (AMES Type 2) provided short range detection.

They were a huge success during the Battle of Britain where they provided an early warning of incoming Luftwaffe raids.

Ironically, the Chain Home system was used against the British when the Germans deployed their own radar system known as Kleine Heidelberg Parasit. This enabled them to track the British aeroplanes using radio signals emitted from the Chain Home radars!

There's not much remaining of the Chain Home system anymore as most of the masts have been dismantled. However, a mast still exists at Great Baddow in Essex, and the Bawdsey Radar Group has gone to extraordinary lengths in a bid to restore the Transmitter Block at Bawdsey.

During the Second World War, the site was extensively used to carry out bomb ballistics and firing trials. The ballistics tests were observed from the relative safety of the bomb ballistics building which dates back to the early 1930's.


Ballistics Building

The building contained all the instrumentation required to record the flights, trajectories, and impact characteristics of the bombs, and to assist in the preparation of more accurate aiming procedures.

Whereas the bomb ballistics tests were designed to gain a better understanding of targeting and aiming systems, the information obtained from the firing trials was used to determine the vulnerabilities of aircraft and their associated components.

Aircraft and their parts were attacked using a wide variety of ammunition and ordnance, including machine gun ammunition, rockets, and other projectiles.

An area of the site was used as a plate range, where various types of projectile were fired at armour plates and paper targets to determine their efficacy.


Plate Store

During the 1950's, attention shifted to the research and development of atomic weapons. The Atomic Weapons Research Establishment (AWRE) acquired the site and began developing the Atomic Bomb.

Six huge laboratories were built to facilitate environmental testing of the nuclear weapons. During these tests the bombs were subjected to vibration, extremes of temperature, shocks, and high G forces.


Climatic Chamber

Two of the laboratories have affectionately become known as the "Pagodas" because their roofs appear to be supported upon tall pillars.


The two "Pagodas"

This was to minimise the effect of an explosion by venting the gases upward, through the gaps between the pillars.



The Blue Danube has also been tested on this site, quite possibly in laboratory 1, which was used for vibration testing and drop testing of the larger bombs.


Laboratory 1


Laboratories

There are many relics from this period lying rusting and twisted in the shingle. The nose-cone and pieces of panel below were spotted behind a bush.



Don't stray off the designated footpaths though, as there's still a small amount of unexploded ordnance on the site that is liable to explode if disturbed.



During the 1970's, developmental work had begun on an Over The Horizon (OTH) backscatter radar codenamed Cobra Mist.

The system consisted of a huge array of aerials arranged in a fan shape and connected to a central pole, covering an arc of almost 120 degrees.

It was designed to monitor air and missile activity in Eastern Europe and Russia. Unfortunately, it suffered severe technical problems, and after almost three years in service was shut down and the radar was dismantled and removed.

The site is now owned by VT Merlin Communications and broadcasts the BBC World Service.


The former Cobra Mist building

This article wouldn't be complete without mentioning the magnificent lighthouse overlooking the North Sea.

Since the beginning of the 17th century, this wind swept stretch of coast has always been protected by a light of one form or another. The first lighthouse (this is debatable as there are records of a beacon here since 1591) was built around 1630, and was later replaced in 1661 by two lighthouses, the High Light and the Low Light. In 1720, both the wooden lighthouses were replaced by brick towers.

In 1792, a new brick tower was built. This was higher than the original High Light and situated much further back. This became known as the new High Light or Great Light, it is this lighthouse that remains today.



To the casual observer, Orford Ness may appear to be just a vast, desolate landscape. A stark reminder of the Cold War era and the struggle for nuclear supremacy. Upon closer inspection, you will find a habitat that is abundant with wildlife, and that contains a rich history dating back to the 17th century.

We must not forget the scientists responsible for their pioneering work on the development of radar, because without them we may never have been able to successfully defend Britain during the Second World War.

I would like to thank those helpful people at the National Trust who acquired the site in 1995, for their painstaking work of maintaining the sites ecology, and for researching and preserving its valuable history.

If you'd like to find out more about Orford Ness I would recommend attending one of the two guided tours that are run throughout the year, Bombs and Beasties and Trial Imminent. The former providing a general overview of all aspects of the site, and the latter dealing specifically with its military history.

Further details and contact information can be obtained from the Orford Ness National Nature Reserve website.

Friday, 7 March 2008

Welcome

Welcome to scenic-suffolk.co.uk and thank you for visiting my blog.

I have created this blog in order to capture some of Suffolks most beautiful and evocative places. Within, you will find photographs of castles, churches, lighthouses, seashores, rivers, wildlife, cottages, and other interesting scenery.

I will also be publishing pictures and brief articles about some of our more unusual places such as Orford Ness and Rendlesham Forest. Both of which, have had their fair share of mystery and intrigue during the last few decades.

In addition to this, I will try to include some of the locations that captured the imagination of John Constable, the 19th century landscape painter best known for his paintings of Dedham Vale and the Hay Wain.

I will also write about current environmental issues, climate change, recycling, and green living. I'll include articles that show you how to make compost, grow your own vegetables, and how to leave a smaller "carbon footprint".

For readers unfamiliar with the county of Suffolk, I will write about the multitude of historical events that helped to shape it. From ancient tracks dating back to 4,000 B.C, the Roman conquests, the Saxon and Norman periods, up to relics of the Cold War era and other modern day marvels.

I will also describe how a large hoard of Roman silver objects that were found in my hometown of Mildenhall in the early 1940's excited many archaeologists and inspired Roald Dahl to write a short story about the discovery.

I hope you enjoy the blog, your comments are most welcome.

Richard